Showing posts with label Sephora. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sephora. Show all posts

Friday, 4 May 2012

Paris and the search for the perfect Red Lipstick


A couple of weeks ago, I went to Paris to visit my old friend, Sarah (http://sarah-serves.blogspot.com), who for the last five months has been living what must be every foodie’s fantasy: fully immersing herself in the French culture and cuisine.  This girl has guts and was one of my greatest inspirations when deciding to pack in my old job and become a make-up artist.  Since I haven’t had a holiday since 2009 and have always wondered what springtime in Paris is like, whom better to see it with than my fabulous, French-speaking friend! Another lure was of course the make-up shops such as Make up For Ever and Sephora (my idea of heaven- why we do not have one in the UK, I’ll never know!) and of course the French pharmacies, with all their amazing products that we have to pay considerably more for here in the UK.
High up on the agenda for my time in Paris was to find Sarah her signature red lipstick. Red lipstick is the stiletto of make up! Red lips are bold, sexy and never go out of style.  But many women find it hard to find the right shade and texture of lipstick for them.  The general rule of thumb is that people with pink skin undertones suit shades of red with a blue undertone, those with yellow/olive undertones suit orangey reds, very pale skintones suit most reds and those with dark skin suit brick reds and burgundy shades.   However, rules are made to be broken –especially when it comes to make up.  A blue shade of red tends to look more formal and grown up whereas orange reds are a little more undone, so it just depends on what look you want to go for. 

As for textures, matte lipstick delivers sophisticated, intense, full coverage colour with no shine.  It normally stays on longer than other lipsticks, but it can be drying.  Sheer lipsticks provide a glossy, sheer wash of see-through colour that allows your natural lip colour to show through.  It doesn’t have to be applied with great precision so is great for a quick fix.  Crème lipsticks provide a full coverage of moist colour. It wears quite well, without being as dehydrating as matte lipstick due to its emollient content. Crème formulas can have a natural, frosted or shimmer finish.  
A few tips to remember when choosing a lipstick in any shade:
·         Glossy lips look more youthful than matte.
·         Dark lip colours age you faster than any other make-up product. (The darker your natural lip colour, the darker you can go with your lip colour and still look natural and youthful).
·         Wear lighter shades of lip colour on thin lips to make them look fuller.
·         Warmer, more colourful lipstick choices always make you appear younger because they bring out the warm tones in your skin and add life to your face.

So back to my search for Sarah’s signature red – we decided that she should go for a matte red with a blue undertone for that dramatic look.  We started off in Make Up For Ever, where we found a gorgeous shade of red that really suited her.  Make Up For Ever was also where I picked up a foundation and lipstick palette and got a 40% professional discount (Merci beaucoup, MUFE!).  However, as it was the first make-up shop we had visited and there were still many others on the agenda we didn’t buy the red lipstick.  Next, we went into MAC, but couldn’t find one that was special enough. 
After a quick stop for refreshments at the quintessentially Parisian Cafe St Regis, a macaroon and chocolate fix at the amazingly fragrant Maison Larnicol and some sight-seeing around Notre Dame, we found our way to City Pharma, one of the many pharmacies in Paris.  Before I left, the main products I planned to buy for my kit were Bioderma Crealine H2O, which is my must-have cleanser in my kit, and Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentrate, which lots of MUAs swear by for moisturising.   I had been watching one of Lisa Eldridge’s wonderful tutorials about French pharmacies and made a note of some of the products she recommended from brands like Nuxe and La Roche- Posay.  I was like a kid in a candy store in the pharmacy and if they hadn’t been ready to close up shop after half an hour in there,  I would have happily spend hours browsing the aisles, trying to decipher what each product is for.  There were so many great products there at more than reasonable prices.  I ended up spending more money than I planned but am very happy with what I bought.
Walking the red carpet in Sephora - I can't contain my happiness!
The next day, we hit The Avenue des Champs-Élysées, lined with designer shops.  After a quick browse in Louis Vuitton, pretending that I could actually afford anything in there, Sarah and I get back down to business. First, we went to a shop called Marionnaud, which Sarah described as the French equivalent of a Superdrug, but I think it’s way classier.  It has a huge selection of men’s and women’s fragrances, skin care and make-up brands from Bourjois to Dior! Sarah tried on and swatched many red lipsticks, including a gorgeous one from the Dior Addict Extreme collection called Fireworks #756, but none were quite right.  So we hot-footed it down the avenue to Sephora. I have been obsessed with Sephora since I lived in New York.  There, it was my ‘happy place’ where I would spend hours on end smelling all the perfumes and testing all the make-up.  Whenever, I’d had a bad day (which was quite often in New York), Sephora would make it all better, so I was excited to be reunited.  And Sephora in Paris did not disappoint... in fact, it welcomed me into its huge doors and onto its red carpet with open arms!  I think this particular store must be one of the brand’s biggest stores in the world because it was quite overwhelming.  I instantly wanted to run in every direction at once and had to rein myself in a bit, take a couple of deep breaths and tell myself repeatedly that I was on a budget and couldn’t afford everything!
Whilst I was painstakingly looking over each product and asking myself “Do I really need this?”,  Sarah was off in search of her red lipstick.  When I caught up with her, her hand looked as if someone had written a novel in Morse code with lipstick and she was obviously a little bewildered by the choice.  So there was only one thing to do:  start from the beginning and try all the red lipsticks on her lips until we found “The One”!  So that is exactly what we did! I kind of took over various make-up stations in the store, found a lipstick that might be suitable and tried them on Sarah, one by one, sanitizing the lipstick before and after, of course and using the various applicators and make-up removers.  None of the staff seemed to mind, fortunately, and I even had a French girl approach me and ask me to suggest a good foundation for her skintone!  Sarah and I spent a good half an hour at least trying on lipsticks from Clarins, Chanel,  Dior, Shiseido, Lancôme, MAC, Givenchy, Guerlain, Giorgio Armani and Sephora’s own brand.  But do you know what we ended up buying? That red lipstick that Sarah first tried on in Make Up Forever, the shade: ‘Moulin Rouge’!  Which just goes to show that it is often the first find that’s the right find, but when it comes to choosing your signature red lipstick (and anything else worth having), it is always worth doing a little work to make sure you find one that’s perfect for you.

Friday, 6 January 2012

Must-have Make-up Brushes

Since becoming a make-up artist I have developed an unhealthy obsession, above all other things, for make-up brushes.  This should not really be surprising to those that know me well:  as a child and even as an adult I had an addiction to buying pens – I believe a pen can make or break your handwriting! A make-up brush is just a tool of a different trade and the right brush can be crucial to beautiful make-up.
Below is a photo of my make-up belt containing all the brushes I take to every job or photoshoot. It contains around 50 brushes.  I also have brush roll of 20 or so extra brushes which I take along if I am working on many models and run out of brushes because there is no time to clean the brushes in between models.
My brush belt

In this post, I am going to tell you what I think are the must-have brushes for your make-up bag and show you examples of brushes I use and love.
1.       FOUNDATION BRUSH
This is a brush made of synthetic fibres and has a flat edge. It is used to apply and blend liquid and cream foundation onto the face.  It ensures the foundation is applied evenly.  My favourite foundation brushes are the MAC Foundation Brush (190) and the Sephora Double ended Foundation and Concealer Brush, which has a concealer brush (see below) on the other end, is bright green and brightens up my brush belt!

Top: MAC foundation brush (190)
Bottom: Sephora Double-ended Concealer + Foundation Brush



2.       CONCEALER BRUSH
Made from synthetic fibres with a rounded head, it is much smaller than the foundation brush and used to apply concealer around delicate areas such as the eyes, as well as for detail work in creases, on blemishes and around the edges of the nose and lips.  I have a few concealer brushes, including a flat concealer brush from Royal & Langnickel, which I tend to use with cream concealers, and the Sigma Precision Tapered brush (P86) which I used with liquid concealers or to buff and blend the concealer in for a beautiful finish.

Top: Royal & Langnickel Concealer Brush (BE14)
Bottom: Sigma Precision Tapered Brush (P86)


3.       ANGLED BROW BRUSH
This is made of synthetic bristles that are flat with a slanted edge. This is a must have to fill in and enhance eyebrows and I also use it to create a perfect 50’s flick with gel eyeliner.
Royal & Langnickel Angled Brow Brush

4.       EYESHADOW APPLICATION AND BLENDING BRUSHES
Eyeshadow application brushes come in many different shapes and sizes.  They should be made of natural hair and are used to apply pigments and eyeshadow to the eyelid.  Blending brushes are made of real hair and have a dome- shaped head with longer bristles than other eyeshadow brushes.  It should be soft and fluffy and is used for blending eyeshadows together and softening edges. It can also be used for applying powder under the eyes to set concealer.  Both of the brushes below are from Sephora (unfortunately not available in the UK).  I love the orange, double-ended eyeshadow brush as one end can be used for application and the other for blending.

Left: Sephora Double-ended Everyday Eye Brush
Right: Sephora Blending  Brush


5.       CONTOUR BRUSH
This brush should be made of natural fibres and feel soft but firm.  It has a slightly tapered head, which enables you to apply contouring blush in the correct place by turning the brush so that the longer hairs are closer to the jawline and the shorter hairs are closer to the cheekbone.  This brush can also be used for applying bronzer, blusher or highlighter.
Left: Daniel Sandler Watercolour brush (to be used with liquid blusher)
Right: Royal & Langnickel Contour Powder Brush

I hope this gives you some idea of the tools of the make-up trade and how to use them.  It is worth spending money on good quality brushes as it will make the application of your make-up so much easier and you will get a better result. With poor quality brushes the bristles often shed heavily and feel scratch on the skin.