Showing posts with label Illamasqua. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Illamasqua. Show all posts

Friday, 4 October 2013

A/W13-14 Make-up Trend: Dark, Sultry Lips


Remember the late 90s, when we all used to experiment with dark reds and browns on our lips? Well, it seems that dark lips are making a comeback.  The AW13 catwalk shows were awash with red wine stained lips.
Backstage at Phillip Lim AW13 Show

Zac Posen AW13


 
But rather than being perfectly lined and even in colour, the newest trend is to give the lips a stained effect with the colour strongest towards the centre of the lips, fading towards the lip line. The lip often has a matte finish.
Antonio Marras AW13

 

I love wearing dark lipsticks and I have been experimenting with rich, dark reds and browns in my recent shoots. Here is a photo from a shoot I did with photographer, Terri Lee Shield, recently.  To achieve this lip colour, I applied one of my favourite matte lipsticks, M.A.C. Ruby Woo, and then deepened the colour with plum and even black lipsticks and lip pencils.
Hair and Make-up by Donna Harris (The Make-up Darling)
 

On my shoot yesterday, I decided to go for a matte brown lip on the model and so used M.A.C. Chestnut Lip Pencil all over the lip.
Hair and make-up by Donna Harris ( The Make-up Darling).
 
 
 
Here are a few of my favourite dark lip colours:
 
 
From top to bottom:

 
·         Dawn Crème Lipstick by Make up Store (black)
·         Black Cherry Lipstick by Revlon (deep plum)
·         Nightmoth Lip Pencil by M.A.C.  (deep purple/plum)
·         Fever Liqui-Gel Stain by Beaute (dark red)
·         Hermetic Intense Lip Gloss by Illamasqua (deep wine red)
·         Control Lipstick by Kevyn Aucoin (raisin/brown)
·         Havanna Glossy Lipstick by Make Up Store (plum/brown)
·         Chestnut Lip Pencil by M.A.C. (deep brown)
 
 

Friday, 25 November 2011

Autumn Leaves and Bare Trees

By far, my favourite seasons are autumn and spring.  I love the colours that these seasons bring, both in nature and in fashion, and prefer the often crisp but bright and temperate days during the Spring and Autumn months to the harshness of temperature that comes with summer and winter.  For me,  autumn has always been about newness, whether it be a new age (my birthday is in September) or  moving into a new school year with a new bag and pencil case (as was always the case when I was little- I was stationery obsessed!).  I also like that if you use the Americanism for autumn  (fall) then you have two seasons  named after actions and these actions kind of sum up the seasons as a whole.
Anyway, I digress...this is a make-up blog not a high school English essay!  What I’m getting at is that I really like autumn with all its rich colours and I had been thinking about doing some make-up based on the changing colours of leaves .  My opportunity came when Karen Helle, who I had previously worked with on a stylist’s fashion shoot last month, asked me to do make-up and hair for her autumn themed shoot in the park.  I had recently bought some new eyeshadows and lipsticks in suitably autumnal shades and was dying to try them out.
My first model, Byony, was pale-skinned with blue eyes and dark hair with red streaks running through it.  On her face, I used Illamasqua’s Skin Base foundation in shade 6, which I absolutely love because it provides a good coverage without looking heavy and photographs very well.  On Bryony’s eyes, I used shades of orange, amber and brown to accentuate her blue eyes.  I lined her eyes with a black pencil (rather than a liquid liner) and smudged it into the top and bottom lash lines for a softer finish, before applying mascara.  I contoured Bryony’s cheeks with a matt brown pressed powder and then highlighted her cheekbones with a liquid highlighter. I added a soft pink blusher and some bronzer to warm up Bryony’s cheeks.  Finally, I applied a nude colour to the lips.




Model: Byrony
Photography: Karen Helle
MU/H: Donna Harris a.k.a. The Make-up Darling


My second model, Tara, had Asian skin, dark eyes and dark hair.  I used Smashbox Studio Skin 15 Hour Wear Foundation (shade 3.2) which I got a small sample of to try it out.  I really liked this foundation – it went on really quickly and smoothly, photographed well and looked like the model was wearing no foundation at all.  Tara had absolutely flawless skin anyway, so the last thing I wanted to do was stick a heavy foundation on her, so this one worked perfectly.  I wanted to do both dark eyes and dark lips on Tara. I applied a black eyeshadow primer to Tara’s eyelid followed by a mixture of black and plum eyeshadows, which I also used to line the bottom lash line. I then added  purple and gold eyeshadow to the middle of the eyelid to add more dimension to the eyes. I lined the eyes with a black eyeshadow to increase the smokiness and then added lots of mascara.  I heavily contoured Tara’s face with a matt brown pressed powder and added a liquid highlighter to the top of her cheekbones, down her nose and on her cupid’s bow.  Finally, I added a deep purple lipstick, which I made by mixing two shades of NYX lipstick (Pandora and Almost Black) together, and  then lined the lips with black eyeliner for more definition  before smudging the liner into the lipstick.





Model: Tara
Photography: Karen Helle
MU/H: Donna Harris a.k.a. The Make-up Darling
For both models, I wanted to keep the hair simple and quite ‘undone’, so I lightly backcombed their hair to add volume and sprayed in some hairspray at the roots.
I am really happy with the outcome and these photos will definitely go in my professional portfolio.  Neither Bryony or Tara have done any professional modelling before but I think they could both have a career in the industry if they chose to.  I am in awe of Karen’s ability to capture the beauty of nature in these photos, like the different colours in the bark of the tree behind Bryony’s head.
As always, thank you for reading this post and I would love to have your comments.  You can also follow me on Twitter @donnaharris_mua or ‘Like’ my Facebook page.

Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Play Time!

This week, we have been getting more artistic at make-up school and working on more avant-garde and conceptual looks for photography and catwalk.  Having seen photos from haute couture fashion weeks with models sporting very imaginative, cutting-edge looks, I was keen to see if I could master the art myself.  However, I was never particularly good at art in school: I was always a bit too ‘safe’ and light-handed with my 2B pencil and this style of make-up definitely calls for you to 'play' with make-up, push the boundaries and design works of art.
We started by taking the 20’s inspired look (see previous post) and (under the instruction of our tutor) layering make-up over this to achieve a more artistic look:




Then, today, as I was the only student in class, my tutor and I had an opportunity to take the conceptual look a bit further.  I don’t know if any of you managed to grab a copy of this week’s Stylist Magazine on your way into work this morning, but in the beauty section there was an article and six page editorial demonstrating the work of an amazing make-up artist, Alex Box. Box is a truly inspirational make-up artist and her work beautifully traverses the boundaries between make-up and art. She is the Creative Director of Illamasqua, which is fast becoming my favourite make-up brand.
Using the ‘Cubism’ inspired look as inspiration, my tutor demonstrated the techniques for creating angular shapes on one half of my face and I did my best to complete the other half. 






Photo of the image in Stylist Magazine that inspired today's look!

Isn't make-up amazing?  Feel free to comment on this or any of my other posts.